The Problem with Gooseberries
the elusive Gooseberries
“Notes of Gooseberries” is a go-to descriptor for Sauvignon Blanc, especially New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. But honestly, I doubt that many wine professionals actually know what gooseberries are.
To prove my point: a seasoned wine professional—nearly three decades in the industry—was pouring for me a South African Sauvignon Blanc. Without prompting, he confidently described the nose as having “classic gooseberry notes.”
Just the day before, I had been discussing with a colleague how ridiculous this exact descriptor was. So, I seized the opportunity to ask: “Have you ever had gooseberries before?”
With absolute certainty he replied, “No, I’ve never had gooseberries, but when I think about what they would taste like, this is it.”
Though I did not comment, inside I was disappointed and frustrated.
Years ago when I was just starting my wine journey as a consumer, before quickly pivoting into it as a profession, I would have been impressed by his ability to describe wine so precisely. Heck, I would have aspired to this level of knowledge. But in that moment, he dispelled my illusion by regurgitated a descriptor we had both heard countless times. And one neither of us had personal experiences with.
“We can only come up with a description for molecule mixtures that we recognize from experience, or for individual molecules that we recognize as being a prominent part of familiar mixtures….we can’t recognize and evaluate a flavor or smell unless we’ve actually experienced it or something like it before.
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Gooseberry is just one example of the many recycled descriptors in the language of wine.
The problem here is that when wine professionals rely on memorized and regurgitated language rather than personal experiences, they reinforce a culture of wine that feels intimidating and unwelcoming. Whether it’s a would-be wine enthusiast or someone considering a career in the industry, this “standardize language of wine” often creates a barrier to engagement or entry.
People often ask why I got into wine. My answer has remained the same over the years— wine, much like food, has the ability to connect and bring people together. But that connection cannot be possible if people feel they are not invited in or they are not provided with an opportunity to engage with wine in relatable and meaningful ways.
